EDUCATION

EVALUATING PRECIOUS GEMSTONES

GEMSTONE ESSENTIAL

Over the centuries, diamonds have also become the ultimate declaration of love in the form of engagement rings, eternity rings and contemporary wedding bands. Diamonds possess a unique character, elegance and remain simply timeless, making them a great choice of gemstone for any piece of jewellery. Few consumer products undergo the scrutiny that diamonds are subjected to. That’s because subtle variations in colour, cut and clarity can cause significant differences in a diamond’s value.

CARAT

Diamond carat weight is the measurement of how much a diamond weighs. A metric “carat” is defined as 200 milligrams. All else being equal, diamond price increases with diamond carat weight because larger diamonds are more rare and more desirable. But two diamonds of equal carat weight can have very different values (and prices) depending on other additional factors.

COLOUR

Diamond colour evaluation of most gem-quality diamonds is based on the absence of colour. A chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond has no hue, like a drop of pure water, and consequently, a higher value. GIA’s D-to-Z diamond colour-grading system measures the degree of colourlessness by comparing a stone under controlled lighting and precise viewing conditions to masterstones of established colour value.

CLARITY

Evaluating diamond clarity involves determining the number, size, relief, nature, and position of these characteristics, as well as how these affect the overall appearance of the stone. While no diamond is perfectly pure, the closer it comes, the higher its value. The GIA Diamond Clarity Scale has 6 categories, some of which are divided, for a total of 11 specific grades: FL, IF, VVS1, VVS2, VS1, VS2, SI1, SI2, I1, I2 and I3.

CERTIFICATION

Also known as a diamond grading report, diamond dossier or a diamond quality document. The report is created by gemmologists who evaluate the characteristics, value and identity of the diamond, which is confirmed within the certificate. Diamond Grading Report includes an assessment of the 4Cs – Colour, Clarity, Cut and Carat Weight – along with a plotted diagram of its clarity characteristics and a graphic representation of the diamond’s proportions.

CUT & SHAPE

Diamonds are renowned for their ability to transmit light and sparkle so intensely. We often think of a diamond’s cut as shape (round, heart, oval, marquise, pear), but a diamond’s cut grade is really about how well a diamond’s facets interact with light. Diamond's table and depth affects the cut whilst contour of a diamond is effectively the shape of the diamond. It is also dictated by the ratio, which is the length divided by the width measurement. The bigger the ration, the longer and thinner the diamond shape.

COST

Price will vary depending on the quality of diamonds in the market, the source of the diamond and where it was manufactured. Understanding the factors that influence price and what they are in reality is essential and allows you to make the best informed decision about what criteria offer the right compromise for your budget, setting your own personal levels of compromise within the scales. Remember, you are buying something that is of great value, which can be passed along for many generations.

FLUORESCENCE IN A DIAMOND GOOD?

Fluorescence is the tendency of a diamond to emit a (soft) glow when exposed to ultraviolet light (UV light). The fluorescence effect is present in over 30% of diamonds and is an important consideration when buying a loose diamond. Fluorescence can enhance or detract from the beauty of a diamond. The bluish tint can improve a lower-colour diamond (J-M colour rated) by cancelling out the faint yellow, resulting in a colourless appearance.

However, in a very high-colour diamond (D-F colour rated), fluorescence may have the opposite effect. In a small number of diamonds, the presence of strong fluorescence creates a hazy, milky, oily, or cloudy appearance. For this reason, very fluorescent diamonds can be valued lower than similar diamonds with fluorescent ratings of "None," "Faint," or "Medium".

POPULAR DIAMOND SHAPES

Trends come and go, especially in the jewellery industry. While the classic, sparkling diamond has remained one of the most sought-after gems for centuries, diamonds and other gemstones come in various shapes, each of which has had its own time to shine. Below you will find a list of 12 most popular gemstone shapes as well as their characteristics.

ROUND BRILLIANT CUT

Round brilliant cut diamond is the most popular shape of diamond. For hundreds of years, diamond cutters have been working with this cut to maximize its brilliance and fire. While this cut offers great flexibility within the four C’s, you will want to select higher quality grades to bring out the most brilliance within a round diamond.

PRINCESS CUT

Princess cut diamonds are exceptionally dazzling because of the way they are cut and are available in both square and rectangular shapes. The colour that is emitted from princess cut diamonds is very unique. While the colour of other diamond is displayed mainly in the center, the princess cut diamonds show distinct colour in each of the corners as well.

MARQUISE CUT

Marquise cut diamond is a perfect shape for maximizing carat weight by emphasizing the size of the diamond. Its unique shape creates the effect of longer, more slender hands and fingers. The outline of a diamond is determined by its length to width ratio, which also provides an image of the shape and look of the diamond.

ASSCHER CUT

Asscher cut diamonds are often mistaken for an emerald cut because of its similar cut style; however an asscher is square rather than rectangular. Created in the early 1920s, the asscher cut has recently resurged in popularity, especially amongst celebrities.

EMERALD CUT

Emerald cut diamonds have a unique optical appearance because of the rectangular facets step cut into the diamond’s pavilion. This cut showcases the diamond’s original clarity beautifully because of its large rectangular table which will also make inclusions and colour more apparent.

RADIANT CUT

Radiant cut diamonds feature uniquely trimmed corners which combines the lines of an emerald cut with the brilliance of a round diamond. The sparkle of this diamond cut looks alluring when combined with a variety of other diamond cuts.

PEAR CUT

Teardrop style of pear shaped diamonds is phenomenal. The slender pear shape will give fingers and hands a slimmer appearance while creating a soft and delicate look. Pear shaped diamonds are cut to produce maximum brilliance, so it’s important to look for excellent symmetry.

OVAL CUT

Oval cut diamonds have a classic appearance with a modern twist. It is a popular cut in all types of jewellery, especially in engagement rings, making it easy to match with other jewellery. It has an exquisite brilliance, similar to the round brilliant cut, but also has the advantage of emphasizing long, slender finders.

CUSHION CUT

Also known as pillow cut diamond, the cushion cut is a timeless cut that has earned its name for its pillow shape. Cushion cut diamonds tend to have impeccable clarity in their appearance which can be attributed to their rounded corners and larger facets. These diamonds are normally available in square and rectangular shapes.

CERTIFICATION

Certifying your diamond by one of the leading independent and recognised certification laboratories is fundermental for an unbiased assessment of the stone's quality. GIA, AGS, HRD, IGI & EGL are the leading grading bodies in the diamond industry today, ranked in order of strictness. Needless to say, the strict standard of GIA has become the diamond industry's benchmark.

The 5 leading diamond certification organisations issue a unique number for every diamond. On most GIA certificates, this number is laser inscribed onto the diamond and can be verified with a magnification glass. This confirms the physical diamond matches the unbiased assessment of the stone shown on the certificate.

WHAT IS A DIAMOND'S TABLE?

Have you ever noticed that nearly every diamond has a flat, square-shaped facet on its top? This flat facet is called the table, and it plays a critical role in a diamond’s appearance. The table refracts rays of light as they pass, directing them to the facets that make the diamond look so sparkly.

It is important to note that when it comes to the table, bigger is not always better. If the table on a diamond is too large, the upper facets on the crown don’t have room to disperse light. If the table is too small, there won’t be much light getting into the stone, diminishing its overall brilliance.

WHAT IS A DIAMOND'S DEPTH?

The depth of a diamond might also be called the “height”: it is the distance from the table to the culet (the pointed tip) of the diamond.

Like with a diamond’s table, jewelers grade a diamond’s depth based on its depth percentage. Depth percentage is the diamond’s depth divided by the width of the diamond. This percentage dictates the overall proportions of the diamond, which in turn directly impact how light reflects off the facets in the stone.

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